The Breddos boys’ decision to move from street food stall to bricks-and-mortar is one Zoë Perrett heartily agrees with
Until late last year, Breddos Taco-lovers who were less than in love with the idea of queues, disposable plates, and jostling for dining space at a street food market were firmly out of luck. And then, in what their fans will remember as a sort of Christmas miracle, co-founders Nud Dudhia and Chris Whitney flung open the doors to their taqueria.
A short, sexy menu changes often but not radically; ensuring you’ll never be bereft of too many favourites, but equally that there’s always something new to tantalise those tastebuds. After all, almost every item here does just that, from the fruit-laced margaritas you should surely treat yourself to through to a post-prandial palate-cleansing sorbet.
In between those items, order fast and furious. Heat wimps be warned: salsas make eyes water as much as mouths. But persevere – the habanero in particular is a fruity beauty, and, scooped up with corn chips, they’re the ideal appetite sharpener; whether munched at the counter, the communal table, or in a cosy booth.
Unless you, like LB, are an ardent cheese-hater, start with the chorizo-spiked queso fundido; a deep, molten puddle that’ll make you feel first euphoric, then fat, then not care a jot about the latter because it’s so gosh-darn good.
An unwritten rule says it’s impossible to order too many tacos – certainly when they’re of this quality. House-made tortillas offer a fine foundation for the likes of slow-cooked beef short rib, masa fried chicken with heritage tomato pico de gallo, and an innovative affair topped with a soft-yolked egg and macadamia mole. Veering from the theme, we tuck into a vast grilled Old Spot pork chop, and are glad.
Traditions are made to be broken, and Breddos isn’t in the slightest averse to some funky fusion; a kung pao pork belly taco a notable example. Balanced by its crisp tostada base, octopus is cooked into similarly-silky submission. Relishing the last mouthful, I inform cephalopod-phobic LB that the addition of bone marrow is an indulgent, ingenious manoeuvre.
As was the decision to open a restaurant. One that’s tiny, mighty, and altogether brilliant.
Make it happen
Where: 82 Goswell Road, London EC1V 7DB
Find out more: To visit the website, click here
Amuse Bouche 